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According to my Blue Guide it is known as Hajim's Hole, named after the Kosovan who dug it soon after the fall of Communism, as the foundations for a new Sheraton Hotel. But before Hajim could fill his hole he quietly left the country with a lot of investors' money. Now he is in prison in Switzerland, his millions no doubt confiscated by the KLA and his hole remains unfilled, full of green water.Readers of 'The Independent on Sunday' can order a copy of 'Slow Winter' (published by TravellersEye at £7.99) for the discounted price of £6.99 (including p&p in the UK). Contact TravellersEye (020-8743 3276; Monday-Friday 9.00am-6.00pm Not Bank Holiday Monday)..

One could almost feel sorry for Tony Blair. Next weekend, he visits St Petersburg, one of Europe's most beautiful cities, with good weather virtually guaranteed (Russian air force planes are on standby to spray cloud-bursting liquid nitrogen at the first hint of rain). But the Prime Minister will spend less than 48 hours being whizzed round a Baroque fantasy of colonnaded palaces, ornate fa?es and gold leaf, and while he will celebrate St Petersburg's 300th anniversary in undeniable style and opulence, as only the Russians know how, he will not see the real "Peter", or catch more than a glimpse of the northern capital's attractions One could almost feel sorry for Tony Blair. Huge investment has gone into sprucing up the centre, so go soon, while the paint is fresh and the population is in festive mood."Peter's City" sits on more than 40 islands in the Neva estuary, near the shores of the Baltic Sea. After decades of neglect and periods as a warehouse and the Museum of Atheism, this impressive building has been restored to some of its Orthodox glory.St Isaac's Cathedral, another re-consecrated church, willfigure in next weekend's formalities, but it is hard to imagine the hundreds of guests feeling cramped in this massive edifice, its gilded dome soaring up from solid granite pillars.

One of the best views of St Petersburg's dazzling riverscape can be had from its observation platform, a great place to get one's bearings and pick out landmarks.To the east, the gold Admiralty spire marks one end of Nevsky Prospekt, and lines up with a similar spire rising from the St Peter and Paul Cathedral. Set in the heart of the Peter and Paul Fortress, this is where Peter the Great and his Romanov descendents are buried. Around it, the former Imperial Mint and the Trubetskoy prison are reminders that "Hare Island" was once the centre of the Russian empire. A walk along the fortress's bastions provides a shimmering panorama back across the Neva to the Winter Palace's seemingly endless green and white facade and tall windows.If you are lucky, a boatman will offer to row you over for a small charge.